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That said, our last drive — five hours and 1,000 metres up into the Western Ghats, finishing in the temple city of Madurai in Tamil Nadu — was the most beautiful and fascinating of all, traversing an astonishing agricultural diversity: a whole Pantone chart of greens, from tea plantations to coconut groves, sugar cane, grapevines and freaky-looking cotton trees, which dangled their prodigious pods over the road.
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