Mr and Mrs Thring

Thank you so very much for arranging a most wonderful stay for us in Kashmir. We have been meaning to email you before this but there has been a lot to catch up on. The house boat was superb, and Gulam the houseboy and Gulam the owner couldn’t have looked after us better or been more helpful. We enjoyed our meals. We never actually met the cook, but we think he cooked us specially mildly spiced meals once he learned how “hot” we could cope with, and we very much appreciated that thoughtfulness.

The houseboat was in a blissfully peaceful position as you know, with fabulous views across the lake with the Himalayan foothills in the distance. Relaxing on the veranda, looking over the lake with the odd Shikara passing silently by, listening to the birds and the chattering of distant voices of people going about their business across the water, was perfect heaven. Talking with a group of Canadians in Srinagar airport on the way home we realised just how lucky we were, as their houseboat was not in anything like such a good location!

We appreciated being among Indian fellow guests in a house-party situation and we have kept in touch with one of the families from Delhi who were charming.

We very much enjoyed our days out, to the gardens and sights around Srinangar, to Gulmarg and our tour around Wular lake. We could well understand how our relatives fell in love with Kashmir and the lakes and mountains all those years ago. We strongly recommend a stay on a houseboat in Kashmir to relax and unwind as part of any tour of Rajasthan or Northern India.

We never felt at all threatened by the security “situation”; it was amusing that our colleagues who went to “safe” Kathmandu felt a lot more at risk than we did! Though the Indian army was present in huge numbers, the atmosphere felt totally different from that we experienced in Tibet a couple of years ago. There the Chinese army definitely felt like an oppressive force, whereas the Indian army in Kashmir felt to us as though it was comfortable with and protective towards Kashmir and the Kashmiri people.

Just one thing we very much regret is that we did not sufficiently reward our local guide in Gulmarg. We were confused at first as to whether we were paying him in full or just tipping him, and realise that in the confusion we did not give him as much as we should have, to cover his day rate and a tip. Is there any way we can get another £5 to him?

We would very much like to come back to Kashmir one day. Meanwhile we are intending to write to the Daily Telegraph about our experiences and to thank them for publishing the earlier letter from the Brigadier which led us to follow his tracks.

Thank you again for arranging such a memorable holiday for us. We are very happy for you to share our comments with others; it may help them to consider our Foreign Office advice from a wider perspective, and experience as enjoyable time in Kashmir as we have had.

Best wishes

Liz and John Thring

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